Perched majestically atop two ridges of the Serra de Sintra, the Castle of the Moors (Castelo dos Mouros) stands as a powerful and evocative symbol of Portugal’s rich and complex past. Unlike the opulent palaces that dot the Sintra landscape, this ancient fortress offers a “no-frills” experience, transporting visitors directly back to the Middle Ages with its austere stone fortifications and winding walls. It is a privileged viewpoint, offering unparalleled panoramic vistas that stretch from the enchanting town of Sintra to the vast expanse of the Atlantic Ocean, encompassing the Pena Palace, the coastline, and distant towns like Ericeira and Mafra. A visit here is not just a walk through ruins, but a journey through centuries of history, conquest, and breathtaking natural beauty.
The history of the Castle of the Moors dates back to the early days of the Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula, with its construction beginning in the 8th century. Strategically built atop one of the highest peaks in the Sintra hills, its purpose was to fortify the area and control vital routes connecting Sintra to what are now Lisbon, Cascais, and Mafra.
During the tumultuous period of the Crusades around 1100, the castle frequently changed hands between Christian kings and Arab emirs. Notably, in 1108, the Norwegian King Sigurd the Crusader conquered the castle while en route to Jerusalem. However, it was in 1147, after various attempts, that the castle was definitively taken by the first King of Portugal, Afonso I (1109-1185), following the conquest of Lisbon and Santarém.
Following the Christian reconquest and the restoration of peace, the castle gradually lost its strategic importance, as there was no longer a need to protect the population within its walls, leading to its abandonment. For centuries, it fell into disrepair, with its curtain walls being overtaken by vegetation and even collapsing in places.
A new chapter began in the 19th century with the arrival of Romantic aesthetics. In 1838, King Consort Ferdinand II of Saxe Coburg-Gotha, husband of Queen Maria II, acquired the castle and the surrounding areas. With a sensitive and enlightened spirit, he undertook significant restoration work, consolidating the curtain walls and towers and afforesting the surrounding areas, thereby returning the castle’s silhouette to the luxurious Sintra landscape and breathing new life into its medieval imaginary. Further restoration efforts took place in 1940 for ceremonies celebrating the foundation of Portugal. In 1995, the Sintra Cultural Landscape, including the Castle of the Moors, was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing its fundamental historical and architectural significance.
The Castle of the Moors boasts an irregular plan, characterized by a double belt of walls that wind over the mountainous terrain. The internal wall features battlements and is reinforced by five fortified towers, offering incredible vantage points.
Within the castle walls, visitors can explore the ruins of structures, including a rectangular cistern, 18 meters long by 6 meters wide, which would have provided life-saving water during a siege. Afonso I also built the Romanesque Chapel of São Pedro inside the walls after reconquering Lisbon in 1147. Interesting traces of this chapel remain, including two Romanesque doorways, fresco paintings in the chancel, and several tombs from the former medieval necropolis. Archaeological excavations are currently underway, continuously clearing up questions about the history of human presence in this area and revealing countless discoveries about its inhabitants from the Neolithic period through the Middle Ages.
One particularly intriguing feature is the “Porta da Traição” (Door of Betrayal), a wooden door built as a last-resort escape route out of the castle. Its name hints at its dual nature: while offering an exit, it also presented a potential entry point for enemies .
Interesting Fact: A captivating legend surrounds Afonso I’s conquest of the castle in 1147. As his crusaders secretly observed the Moorish movements, the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to the fearful knights, reassuring them with the words: “Do not be afraid, there are twenty of you, but you are worth one thousand” (“Não tenhais medo porque ides vinte, mas mil ides”). Filled with courage, the knights subsequently defeated the enemy and conquered the castle, leading to the erection of the Chapel of Our Lady of Milides (“worth one thousand”) in Colares in honor of this victory .
The Castle of the Moors is open all year, except for December 25th and January 1st, with the last entry one hour before closing time. Visitors can easily reach it via Bus 434 (Pena line) from Sintra Train Station.
This ancient fortress is more than just a historical site; it is a testament to human resilience, a canvas of breathtaking views, and a profound connection to the stories that shaped Portugal. Don’t miss the opportunity to conquer its walls and immerse yourself in its timeless allure.
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