HISTOIRES

Photo: Hotel Jagdschloss Kranichstein, Germany

When the sightseeing is done, Europe’s historic hotels come into their own. Swim from the rocks on Sweden’s west coast, linger over dinner in the grounds of a German hunting lodge, drink an aperitivo with Etna on the horizon or take over a private rooftop above a Dutch city. These are places where going to bed early would be a terrible waste of summer.

There is a point on a summer trip when the sensible thing would be to call it a day. Europe, fortunately, is very good at persuading you otherwise.

The heat eases. Church bells replace traffic. Tables fill up outside and the sharp light of afternoon begins to soften. In northern Europe, twilight can stretch late into the evening; further south, sunset often feels like the start of a whole new part of the day.

And at the right hotel, you don’t need to go looking for the evening at all. It is waiting on the terrace, in the garden or down a steep flight of steps to the sea…

One more swim before dark

Strandflickorna Hotel, Sweden

On Sweden’s west coast, a long summer evening might involve getting into the sea one more time than you planned.

Hôtel Strandflickorna is in Lysekil, a coastal town with a long history as a seaside and bathing resort. Its Havshotell is set in a villa dating from 1904, but in summer it is the hotel’s Sea Cabins that really stand out.

The Sea Studio and Bath Pavilion sit right beside the water, reached by steps down the granite rocks. Both have big sea-facing windows, private bathing docks and outdoor hot tubs, while the Bath Pavilion also has its own glass-fronted sauna.

It makes for a very easy evening plan. Swim while the rocks are still warm, sit outside as the light begins to fade and, if the mood takes you, get back into the water again.

On a Swedish summer night, there’s no need to hurry indoors.

A long dinner in the garden

Hotel Jagdschloss Kranichstein, Germany

Au Hôtel Jagdschloss Kranichstein, near Darmstadt, summer evenings have been part of the story for centuries.

The estate became a Renaissance hunting lodge around 1580 and was later used as a summer residence by the ruling family of Hesse-Darmstadt. Surrounded by woodland, meadows and ponds, it still feels like an escape from the city today.

Restaurant Kavaliersbau serves seasonal food in the historic estate buildings, with tables moving out onto the large garden terrace in warmer weather.

This is not really an evening for rushing. Order dinner, settle in outside and enjoy the quieter pace of the place as the light starts to drop.

Sometimes a summer night needs little more than good food, a garden and nowhere else you need to be.

An aperitivo with Etna in view

Hôtel Villa Schuler, Italie

Taormina is made for evenings outdoors.

Au Hotel Villa Schuler, a historic villa that has been welcoming hotel guests since 1905, the rooftop gives you one of the best places to start.

The family-run hotel sits in the heart of Taormina, surrounded by its historic botanical garden. Above it, the rooftop terrace looks across the town towards Mount Etna, the Bay of Naxos and the Sicilian coast.

Come up for an aperitivo as the heat of the day begins to lift. The hotel serves spritzes, Sicilian wines and other drinks on the terrace, and there is really very little else required.

Taormina can be busy in summer, but from up here the pace feels slower. Stay for another drink, watch the light change over Etna and leave dinner until later.

That is, after all, what Sicilian evenings are for.

Firelight in the courtyard

Solar do Castelo, Portugal

Lisbon is not a city that usually encourages you to stay in your hotel, but Solar do Castelo is a little different.

The 20-room hotel sits within the medieval village surrounding São Jorge Castle and occupies an 18th-century mansion built on the site of the former kitchens of the Royal Palace.

By day, Alfama’s steep streets, viewpoints and tiled buildings are right outside the door. After a full day exploring the city, though, the hotel’s courtyard becomes one of its best features.

The cobbled space is enclosed by old stone walls and archways, with a firepit lit after dark.

It’s a simple change of pace from the busy streets outside: find a seat, have a drink and enjoy the quiet for a while before heading to bed — or heading back out again.

Sunset among the vines

Montofoli Wine Estate, Greece

Au Montofoli Wine Estate, on the Greek island of Evia, the obvious drink for sunset is already growing around you.

The estate sits above Karystos, with vineyards spread over a series of terraces and views towards the sea. Four historic villas are set among the vines, citrus trees and gardens, while Greek, Roman, Venetian and Ottoman traces all form part of the wider story of the property.

Wine remains at the heart of Montofoli today. Its vineyards grow Greek grape varieties including Assyrtiko, Aidani, Athiri and Liatiko, and guests can learn more about the estate’s wines through private tastings.

But you don’t need to know much about wine to appreciate the setting.

As evening arrives, take a glass outside and watch the evening light settle over Karystos Bay. With the vineyards around you and the hills behind, it is difficult to think of a better place to stay put for a few hours. 

Your own rooftop above the city

Hotel Central, Netherlands

The final hotel offers something quite different: a summer evening high above the rooftops of Den Bosch.

Hotel Central stands directly on the historic Markt in ’s-Hertogenbosch, on a site with more than 800 years of history. Hotel Central opened in 1896 and has been run by the Rademaker family since 1905.

At the top of the building is Penthouse Central, a 150-square-metre space with its own private 60-square-metre rooftop terrace overlooking the city.

The hotel uses the penthouse for private dinners, weddings and rooftop BBQs, with complete privacy and food, service and other details arranged around the occasion.

That makes it a particularly good fit for a summer evening.

Instead of searching for a busy rooftop bar, you can have the terrace to yourself. Bring a group together for dinner, organise a barbecue, pour a drink and watch the city wind down below.

It feels relaxed rather than formal — a private place to eat, talk and stay outside long after the day’s plans are finished.